Chapter #4Some more soldering...
Step 13 – solder the second 10k ohm resistor
This resistor is important for connecting the microcontroller to the serial UART programmer board.
It’s labeled R3 and the color code goes brown, black, black, red, brown.
Step 16 – 3x2 ICSP header & 100nF capacitors
The header is mounted on the top left front side of the PCB (labeled JP1). After the header, find the two little 100nF capacitors (they have 104 written on their surface) and solder them on places labeled with C1 and C6.
Step 17 – some more resistors and a diode
Ok, let’s solder the rest of the small two-leaded components.
- Solder the 2.2k ohm resistor (red, red, red, golden) to the place marked “R1, 2k”
- 100 ohm resistor (brown, black, brown, golden OR brown, black, black, black, brown) to the spot marked “R6, 100”
- two 4.7k ohm resistors (yellow, purple, red, golden) need to be placed on the marking “R4, 4k7” and “R5, 4k7”
- 1N4148 diode needs to go where “D1, 1N4148” is written on the board. Important: mind the polarity of the diode by making sure that the black ring on the diode matches the marking on the PCB
Step 18 – headphone connector
Although this connector was built for stereo sound output, MAKERbuino can only output bleeps and bloops in mono. Because of that, both left and right earphone are bridged together and connected to the same sound output channel on the microcomputer.
Make use of our previous pro tip and place your pliers beneath the connector so that it doesn’t fall off while you’re soldering it.
Step 19 – Li-Po charger board
For mounting the TP4056 Li-Po charger board, you’ll need to make use of those tiny excess cut-off leads we’ve told you to save on step 3.
Pick four of the longest leads from the pile of excess leads and insert them through charger’s and PCB’s contacts and bend them before soldering.
Electronics 101: This way of adding stack-on PCBs to the main PCB is called the “child board design”. Boards stacked onto the main PCB are called the “child boards”.
Step 20 – male 4-pin angle multiplayer headers
These are labeled as JP3 and JP4 on the board. Use the pro tip about placing the pliers underneath the component because these might be a bit harder to solder.
Step 21 – seven big clicky pushbuttons
Finally! Time’s to solder the yellow pushbuttons.
Important: make sure to push the pushbuttons all the way down to the PCB, otherwise they might get angled, which will cause them to jam when you mount the front casing.
Before starting to screw anything together, make sure to take off the protective peeling that we mentioned earlier.
There are total of 6 layers you need to peel off, two on each plastic case.
Make sure to use your nails or a wooden pick to start with the peeling process.
Do not use anything sharp or made out of metal as it may permanently damage the protective plastic.
When it’s all done, it should look something like this.
Both protective plastics should be completely transparent. If there are any blue layers left on them, make sure to remove it completely.
Step 22 – connect the speaker
Let’s synthesize some bleeps and bloops!
You’ll have to connect the speaker with two tiny soft wires that are included in the kit.
Important: When soldering the wires to the “SPEAKER” pads on the PCB, first apply some solder to the pads, and then solder the wires to the pads.
We recommend using a piece of insulating tape for this.
Alternatively, you can use a hot glue gun or some super glue.
Extra step – the breakout header
Before turning your soldering iron off, you can solder the extra breakout header, but this is an extra and not necessary for the normal functionality of the MAKERbuino gaming device.
The breakout header will come in handy if you plan to hack/mod/customize your MAKERbuino.
Step 23 – test everything!
Now that you have everything soldered, connect the battery again, turn the tiny wheel potentiometers completely to the left (clockwise) and turn the console on.
- try dimming the screen’s backlight with the left (TR2) potentiometer
- you will have an option to adjust the contrast on your MAKERbuino, this option is disabled on most new units and the LCD screens have fixed contrast which doesn’t need adjusting.
After you finish the checkup wizard, the sound should be enabled. Try dimming it with the right (TR1) wheel potentiometer.
Insert the SD card into the socket firmly and all the way down to the bottom of the SD socket.
Fortunately, this can be fixed quite easily.
You will have to do the C-button reset trick like this:
1) insert the SD card
2) turn the console OFF
3) hold the C button
4) turn the console ON
5) release the C button
6) wait for 30 seconds
The SD card loader menu should appear.